However, you can easily hide or move it.

Hide it

Launch Terminal.app and paste the following into there:

setfile -a V ~/Documents/Steam\ Content

The folder should disappear immediately. To make it visible again, use:

setfile -a v ~/Documents/Steam\ Content

To view it in Finder while it is invisible, use:

open ~/Documents/Steam\ Content

Move it

Alternatively, you can move it to another place (be that another folder or even another partition). After moving you would have to create a symlink (sort of a shortcut in Windows’ terms).

For example, you can move it to user’s Library folder (the first line moves it, the second line creates a symlink and the third line hides the symlink in Finder):

mv ~/Documents/Steam\ Content ~/Library/Steam\ Content
ln -s ~/Library/Steam\ Content ~/Documents/Steam\ Content
setfile -P -a V ~/Documents/Steam\ Content

It’s not necessary to move using the Terminal.app — you can as well just take and drag in Finder to wherever you want. In this case, disregard the mv ... command and use only:

ln -s NEW_LOCATION_OF_STEAM_CONTENT ~/Documents/Steam\ Content
setfile -P -a V ~/Documents/Steam\ Content

If you don’t know the exact new path, just drag and drop Steam Content (while it’s in the new location) to the Terminal.app window.

I found a new way to bind input language (input source) switch to the Caps Lock button in Mac OS X. Unlike Kirgudu, the Russian application which is also able to do that, my method works without a lag, so language changes instantly after pressing the Caps Lock button. This is especially important if you’re a fast typer: with Kirgudu, when you start typing right after pressing the Caps Lock, the first letters of a new word might appear in a previously selected language. (I.e. if you used English and Russian layouts, instead of www.google.com, you’d type ццw.google.com).

The logic behind my method is: in OS X system settings, I bind input source selection to the F19 button (instead of default Cmd + Space — which you will still be able to use, by the way). Then, by the means of PCKeyboardHack (driver patch with a “System Preferences” pane, written by Takayama Fumihiko) Caps Lock is remapped to F19. And of course, it will work regardless of your keyboard having a F19 key.

It should work on Mac OS X Leopard and Snow Leopard — but I don’t know about Tiger.

Cons

1. You will not be able to toggle the Caps Lock mode anymore.
2. The green light on the button of your keyboard will not change as you change the input source — it will be lid constantly.
3. You will have to uninstall DoubleCommand and any other keyboard remappers.
4. This way is harder than simply installing Kirgudu.

If you don’t like it later or something won’t work, you will always be able to revert changes. Every mentioned program has an uninstaller.

Step-by-step guide

1. Download and install PCKeyboardHack (requires a reboot).
2. In System Preferences go to “Keyboard” → click the “Modifier Keys…” button and for Caps Lock choose “No action”.
3. If your keyboard does have a F19 key, you may skip this step. Otherwise download my application (actually, this is just a line of AppleScript wrapped into an application), which will press this button virtually. After downloading, unpack and mount the .dmg and drag “Simulate F19” to the Dock (temporarily).
4. Switch to “Keyboard Shortcuts” tab in the same window, select “Keyboard & Text Input” and find “Select the previous input source” (or “next source” — does not matter). Double click the shortcut to change it. Now, if you have F19 on your keyboard, just press it, otherwise press Simulate F19.app in the Dock (if your window lost focus, try once or twice again until the result: double click the shortcut field and press Simulate F19.app). Here is what you should get eventually:If it worked out, you can remove Simulate F19 from the Dock.
5. Return to the main window of System Preferences and choose PCKeyboardHack. Tick “Change Caps Lock” and in the “keycode” column change 51 to 80.

Done!

Additional information

If there is a noticeable delay, download and install KeyRemap4MacBook (requires a reboot). Choose it in System Preferences, select “Mapping” tab, in search field type “capslock” and tick “Enable CapsLock LED Hack” thereafter. This is required to suppress accidental activation protection, used for the Caps Lock button in Mac OS X.

For advanced users: instead of F19 you may use any other key in the range of F13–F19. To do that, in the third step choose an appropriate application (Simulate F13, Simulate F14 etc). And in the fifth step, instead of 80, you need to pick a keycode according to the following table:

Я нашел новый способ «повесить» на клавишу caps lock переключение языка (раскладки) в Mac OS X. В отличие от программы Kirgudu, которая тоже умеет это делать, мой способ работает без задержек, то есть язык переключается практически моментально после нажатия. Это важно, если вы набираете быстро: в случае с Kirgudu, при быстром наборе после нажатия caps lock первые несколько букв могут напечататься на предыдущем языке. (То есть, например, вместо www.google.ru получится ццw.google.ru)

Суть способа такова: в настройках сочетаний клавиш OS X смена языка назначается на клавишу F19 (вместо стандартного сочетания Cmd + Space, которое, впрочем, тоже можно оставить), затем с помощью PCKeyboardHack (это патч к драйверу + интерфейс к нему в системных настройках, написанные Takayama Fumihiko) клавиша caps lock переназначается на эту самую F19. При этом совершенно не важно, есть ли у вас эта клавиша на клавиатуре или нет.

Это должно работать на Mac OS X Leopard и Snow Leopard, про Tiger не знаю.

Минусы

1. Сам режим caps lock будет никак не включить.
2. Нет синхронизации текущего языка с зеленым огоньком на клавише (он будет гореть постоянно).
3. Перед применением придется избавиться от DoubleCommand и иных клавиатурных «ремапперов», если у вас такие имеются.
4. Этот метод сложнее в настройке, чем Kirgudu.

Однако, если вам что-то не понравится или не сработает, всегда можно будет все вернуть на место. У каждой из устанавливаемых программ есть деинсталлер.

Пошаговая инструкция

1. Скачайте и установите PCKeyboardHack (перезагрузитесь опять).
2. В системных настройках зайдите в «Клавиатуру» → вкладка «Клавиатура» → кликните по кнопке «Клавиши модификации» и для caps lock выберите «Никакого действия».
3. Если на вашей клавиатуре в верхнем ряду присутствует клавиша F19, то вы можете пропустить данный шаг. В противном случае, скачайте мою программу (на самом деле, это просто одна строчка на AppleScript, обернутая в программу), которая эту клавишу нажмет виртуально. После скачивания, распакуйте образ dmg и перетащите «Simulate F19» из него в док (это временно).
4. Переключитесь в том же окне системных настроек на вкладку «Сочетания клавиш» → «Клавиатура и ввод текста» → найдите «Выбрать предыдущий источник ввода» (или «следующий», не важно). Кликните дважды по месту, где указывается сочетание клавиш для данного действия. Затем, в случае, если на вашей клавиатуре есть F19, просто нажмите эту клавишу, в противном случае, нажмите иконку программы Simulate F19.app в вашем доке. (Если окно после этого перестало быть активным, просто повторите процедуру: кликните двойным кликом по сочетанию справа и еще раз нажмите на Simulate F19.app). В итоге должно получиться так:Если все получилось, иконку Simulate F19 можно убрать из дока.
5. Вернитесь в главное окно системных настроек, нажмите PCKeyboardHack. Поставьте галочку напротив «Change Caps Lock», а в колонке «keycode» поменяйте 51 на 80.

Готово!

Дополнительно

Если вы замечаете задержку, скачайте и установите KeyRemap4MacBook (потребуется перезагрузка). После этого, откройте ее в системных настройках, затем выберите вкладку «Mapping» — там в строке поиска введите «capslock» и поставьте галочку рядом с «Enable CapsLock LED Hack». Это нужно для того, чтобы выключить предусмотренную Apple защиту от случайных нажатий caps lock.

Для продвинутых пользователей: вместо клавиши F19 может выступить любая другая клавиша в диапазоне F13–F19. Очевидно, что для этого нужно на третьем шаге выбрать соответствующую желаемой клавише программу (Simulate F13, Simulate F14 и т.д.) А на пятом шаге, вместо 80 нужно будет поставить keycode в соответствие с таблицей:

Problem diagnostics

(scroll down for solutions/walkarounds)

What we know so far about the mouse cursor skipping (jumpy, jittery, erratic movement) bug / problem of Mac OS X portrayed in the video above (when the source of knowledge is not specified, the source is me):

1. It occurs mostly with gaming and “high-precision” mouses, confirmed the following:
   1. Logitech G5, first edition and second edition,
   2. Logitech RX1000,
   3. Razer DeathAdder 3G ”Mac edition”,
   4. Logitech G3 (source and source),
   5. Logitech G9x (source),
   6. Razer DeathAdder (source),
   7. Razer Copperhead (source),
   8. Razer Lachesis (source),
   9. Razer Salmosa (source: comment below by h4rg),
   10. Saitek GM3200 (source: comment below by Matt),
   11. Razer ProClick (source: comment below by Slim),
   12. Logitech MX510 (source: comment below by hz),
   13. Logitech G500 (source: comment below by Ali — can be fixed in a similar way to Razer, see the comment),
   14. Razer Imperator (source: comment below by DrLex),
   15. Kensington Optical Elite (source: comment below by Paul),
   16. … (please suggest more in the comments).
2. It occurs on Mac OS X 10.5 “Leopard”, 10.6 “Snow Leopard” and I don’t know about 10.4 “Tiger” 10.4 Tiger too.
3. It does not occur on Windows with the same mouses.
4. It occurs right after installing the operating system, when no other 3rd party software is installed, so it’s most likely software independent.
5. It’s computer independent. I’ve seen it on various Mac Pro, MacBook, MacBook Pro, MacBook Air and even on a Hackintosh.
6. If you connect both “normal” and “jittery” mouses together to the same computer, “normal” will remain “normal” and “jittery” will remain “jittery”.
7. Regardless of what some Google search results say, the bug occurs no matter with or without an external display.
8. Regardless of what some Google search results say, the bug is not gone when you turn off Bluetooth “search for input devices…” option or turn off Bluetooth entirely.
9. Regardless of what some Google search results say, reflashing Logitech G5 (neither of the editions) does not fix the bug.
10. Booting without Ethernet cable plugged in does not help (source).
11. USB Overdrive, SteerMouse or ControllerMate do not fix the bug (update: SteerMouse addresses the issue for Logitech mouses, see below).
12. The problem is very likely to be related to USB polling rate setting of the mouse. Mouses with 125 Hz polling rate don’t experience problems with Mac OS X (for example, Logitech MX518 which has a 125 Hz polling rate is working fine with Mac OS X, although it is considered a gaming mouse). My personal assumption about the nature of the bug (proven with USB Prober): the USB driver of Mac OS X does not adjust its polling rate to the polling rates of such mouses.
13. It seems that the problem occurs even after “downclocking” the polling rate of a mouse to 125Hz. It simply becomes less noticeable (see the video provided by user hz).

Known solutions & walkarounds

1. There is a sort of a walkaround for Razer mouses. Install official Razer drivers (obtainable from the official support site), connect your Razer mouse and set the polling rate to 125 Hz. Once you do that, the mouse will work fine on any Mac you connect it to since the setting is stored in the internal memory of the mouse. You can do the described procedure on either Mac OS X or Windows, but I personally recommend to do that on Windows, because unfortunately (as for November 2009) Razer Mac driver will not uninstall itself correctly from your Mac if you tell it to do so.
2. According to some reports, SteerMouse fixes the problem for various Logitech mouses. Unfortunately you can not fix the problem for Logitech mouses in a similar way to Razer. Logitech SetPoint on Windows won’t store the polling rate setting in the internal memory of a mouse.

It seems to me that the bug is very common — just happy Macintoshers either don’t notice or tend to ignore it. I have reported it to Apple (problem ID: 7675662) and even wrote to Steve Jobs about it… If you as well experience the same problem and you want to have it fixed by Apple, please fill a bug report to Apple Developer Connection (ADC), include your system profile and refer to cases #8023844, #7675662, #7826519, #8097819, #8102684. After that you can as well leave your own bug report identification number in the comments below, so others could refer to it. If you don’t have an ADC account, registering is free or you can as well try to use your Apple.com/iTunes account. Submitting is easy and won’t take you much time.

More information on the issue is welcome in the comments.

At first I was trying to figure what’s a boot helper partition and where do I find it, but eventually I decided to take a look at com.apple.Boot.plist file, which appeared to be non-existent in it’s regular place.

So I created one by myself. In Terminal:

sudo nano /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.Boot.plist

There inserted the default code:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://
www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
	<key>Kernel</key>
	<string>mach_kernel</string>
	<key>Kernel Flags</key>
	<string></string>
</dict>
</plist>

(Cmd+X to save the file).

This solved the problem for me.