Change myVolumeLabel variable to the label of any volume on the drive you want to (un)mount.

set myVolumeLabel to "Storage"

tell application "GrowlHelperApp"
	set the allNotificationsList to {"Disk mounted", "Disk unmounted"}

	register as application "Disk Mounter" all notifications allNotificationsList default notifications allNotificationsList icon of application "Disk Utility.app"
end tell

tell application "Finder"
	set diskDev to do shell script "diskutil list | grep " & myVolumeLabel & " | grep -o 'disk[1-9]*' "
	if not (disk myVolumeLabel exists) then
		do shell script "diskutil mountDisk " & diskDev
		tell application "GrowlHelperApp" to notify with name "Disk mounted" title "Volume mounted" description "Disk “" & diskDev & "” with volume “" & myVolumeLabel & "” has been successfully mounted." application name "Disk Mounter" icon of application "Disk Utility.app"
	else
		do shell script "diskutil unmountDisk " & diskDev
		tell application "GrowlHelperApp" to notify with name "Disk unmounted" title "Disk unmounted" description "Disk “" & diskDev & "” with volume “" & myVolumeLabel & "” has been successfully unmounted." application name "Disk Mounter" icon of application "Disk Utility.app"
	end if
end tell

Last updated: 09.03.10

Update: please note that unmounting an internal HDD screws up some links, for instance, if you had shared folders — they will not be shared after re-mounting the drive. Use the script only with the drives that you never/link use at all in Mac OS — in my case, this applies to the Bootcamp drive.

What I know so far about the mouse cursor skipping (jumpy, jittery, erratic movement) bug of Mac OS X portrayed in the video above:

1. it occurs mostly with gaming and “high-precision” mice, confirmed the following (when the source is not specified the source is me, asterisk indicates that you can find a fix/walkaround below):
   1. Logitech G5, first edition and second edition,
   2. Logitech RX1000,
   3. Razer DeathAdder 3G ”Mac edition”*,
   4. Logitech G3 (source and source),
   5. Logitech G9x (source),
   6. Razer DeathAdder (source)*,
   7. Razer Copperhead (source)*,
   8. Razer Lachesis (source)*,
   9. … (please suggest more in the comments);
2. it occurs on Mac OS X 10.5 “Leopard”, 10.6 “Snow Leopard” and I don’t know about 10.4 “Tiger” 10.4 Tiger too (source);
3. it does not occur on Windows with the very same mice;
4. it occurs with a newly installed system when no 3rd party software is installed, so it’s most likely software independent;
5. it’s computer independent. I’ve seen it on various Mac Pro, MacBook, MacBook Pro, MacBook Air and even on a Hackintosh;
6. if you connect both “normal” and “jittery” mice together to the same computer, “normal” will remain “normal” and “jittery” will remain “jittery”;
7. regardless of what some Google search results say, the bug occurs no matter with or without an external display;
8. regardless of what some Google search results say, the bug is not gone when you turn off Bluetooth “search for input devices…” option or  turn off Bluetooth entirely;
9. regardless of what some Google search results say, reflashing Logitech G5 (neither of the editions) does not fix the bug;
10. USB Overdrive, SteerMouse or ControllerMate do not fix the bug;
11. the problem is very likely to be related to USB polling rate setting of the mouse. Mice with 125 Hz polling rate don’t experience problems with Mac OS X (for example, Logitech MX518 which has a 125 Hz polling rate is working fine with Mac OS X, although it is considered a gaming mouse). My personal assumption about the nature of the bug (proven with USB Prober): the USB driver of Mac OS X does not adjust its polling rate to the polling rates of such mice.
12. the problem can be somewhat fixed for Razer mice! Install official Razer drivers, connect your Razer mouse and set polling rate to 125 Hz. Once you do that, the mouse will work fine on any Mac you connect it to since the setting is stored in the internal memory of the mouse. You can do the described procedure on either Mac OS X or Windows, but I personally recommend to do that on Windows, because unfortunately (as for November 2009) Razer Mac driver will not uninstall itself correctly from your Mac if you tell it to do so;
13. unfortunately changing the polling rate setting of a mouse in Logitech SetPoint on Windows doesn’t solve the problem with that mouse on Mac OS X.

It seems to me that the bug is very common — just happy Macintoshers either don’t notice or tend to ignore it. I have reported it to Apple (problem ID: 7675662).

More information on the issue is welcome in the comments.

Note that the track will remain “locked” until you restart iTunes.

Пример такого сайта — ВКонтакте. Отсутствующий у меня шрифт Tahoma зачем-то заменяется на более широкий Verdana, который заставляет отдельные элементы разъезжаться.

По умолчанию скрипт работает только с ВКонтакте, но вы всегда можете добавить новый сайт в настройках GreaseMonkey:

Установить скрипт «Override fonts with Helvetica Neue».
(перед установкой убедитесь, что у вас установлен и включен плагин GreaseMonkey).

To diagnose the problem, I booted in verbose mode (hold Cmd + V when it starts booting, later you may find the logs in Console.app) and noticed these lines:

Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer: Busy services :
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2 [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0 [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E/IOPCI2PCIBridge [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E/IOPCI2PCIBridge/FRWR@3 [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E/IOPCI2PCIBridge/FRWR@3/AppleFWOHCI [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E/IOPCI2PCIBridge/FRWR@3/AppleFWOHCI/IOFireWireController [1]
Jun 21 03:02:15 Dae-MBP configd[36]: InterfaceNamer:   MacBookPro2,2/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/PCIB@1E/IOPCI2PCIBridge/FRWR@3/AppleFWOHCI/IOFireWireController/IOFireWireLocalNode [1]
Jun 21 03:06:20 Dae-MBP /usr/libexec/hidd[27]: Timeout waiting for IOKit to be quiet

Obviously something was wrong with firewire. I checked my firewire 400 port and it appeared to be broken. Quick search revealed that the problem of dieing firewire ports is not uncommon for this generation of MacBook Pros, and the only way to repair it is to replace a logic board. I confirmed all of these by contacting a technician of local Apple reseller.

Since my MacBook was out of warranty and I didn’t want to spend 350€  on a new logic board for a quite old computer, I decided to minimize the consequences. The solution was easy: to move IOFireWireFamily.kext out of /System/Extensions. I as well have to repeat this operation after installing system updates. The sleep problem was gone as well.

Step 1

Download and install Audacity and FFmpeg. Both are free open-source programs: Audacity is a sound editor, and FFmpeg is a media converter, which will allow us to export ringtones into the AAC format required by iTunes.

After that we need to link Audacity to ffmpeg: launch Audacity, go to preferences and click the “Locate” button under “FFmpeg Import/Export Library”.

Step 2

Press File → Open (in Audacity, of course) and pick the audio track you would like to make a ringtone from. I’ve chosen “Mmmbop” by Hanson which is the ringtone of Dr. House in “House” TV series. Once the file is open, you will see something like this:
The blue graphic is an audio track. You can click anywhere on it to set the position to play from or you can select fragments of it to edit them.

Press the space bar (or the green right arrow button in the topmost controls) to play your track.

Step 3

Now we can actually start making the ringtone. iTunes has a 40 seconds length limitation for a ringtone, so you can’t just convert the whole track into it.

Take a look at “Audio Position” counter in the bottom of the window — when you hear the best position to cut your ringtone from, note down the time. After that, stop the playback and type the noted time into the “Selection Start” field, then switch the radio button from “End” to “Length” above the middle field and change the last number to 40. I’ve decided to cut the ringtone from 1 minute 40 seconds (mind the selection):
Now copy the selection (Cmd+C), make a new Audacity file (Cmd+N) and paste the selected piece (Cmd+V). The new track might look totally different than it was in the original file: don’t be scared, you might need to zoom out a bit (Cmd+F to fit in window). You may now close the original file.

Step 4

Now let’s add some effects.

First of all, iPhones have quiet speakers, so it’d be worth to amplify the ringtone to the maximum. Press Cmd+A to select the whole track, then in the top menu choose Effect → Amplify.

You will see a small dialog:

Tick “Allow clipping” and change “Amplification (dB)” to any positive value. You may experiment with preview to find the most suitable amplification value before the hisses are too strong. I’ve chosen 5.

Secondly, I wouldn’t want a call to scare me or bother people around me, so I’ve changed volume in the beginning of the ringtone to grow gradually. To do the same, just select the first 10 seconds of the track and in the top menu press Effect → Fade In.

Thirdly, the ringtone might play continuously several times before I pick up the phone, so I’ve also used the “Fade Out” effect on the last 5 seconds of the track to smooth the “discrepancy” between the end and beginning of it.

Eventually the track will resemble this:

Step 5

Press File → Export. The program will ask you to set some meta tags, you may optionally specify “Artist Name” and “Track Title” — that would be enough:
In file saving dialog, choose format: “M4A (AAC) Files (FFmpeg)” and as well click the nearby “Options” button to make sure the slider remains at 128.

Step 6

After saving your file, find it in Finder and change it’s extension from “.m4a” to “.m4r”:

(If you don’t see extensions in file names, go to Finder preferences → “Advanced” tab → tick “Show all filename extensions”).

Double click your file to add it to iTunes. It should appear under “Ringtones” now.

At first I was trying to figure what’s a boot helper partition and where do I find it, but eventually I decided to take a look at com.apple.Boot.plist file, which appeared to be non-existent in it’s regular place.

So I created one by myself. In Terminal:

sudo nano /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.Boot.plist

There inserted the default code:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://
www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
	<key>Kernel</key>
	<string>mach_kernel</string>
	<key>Kernel Flags</key>
	<string></string>
</dict>
</plist>

(Cmd+X to save the file).

This solved the problem for me.